The Pacific Northwest...
I forgot how beautiful this region is
I’ve had a few days to reflect on my recent week in Seattle and the Olympic National Park area, and the region’s charm continues to grow on me. I’ve visited Seattle before, so I had an idea of what to expect, even if it’s been more than a decade since I’ve walked the hills of downtown. But the Olympic National Park and surrounding areas were new to me, and they were well worth the trip.
This journey was a work/study trip, as I was there for a travel photography course. The course is a component of my Bachelor’s program in Commercial Photography. It demands a final portfolio of photos covering a variety of things you would expect to see in travel-related marketing magazines, websites, and books.
With a focus on specific photographic tasks, my view and purpose in the city and national park were quite different than a leisure trip. But that doesn’t mean the journey was less fun; it was a different kind of fun. With 18 people, including our instructors, we also had to manage the typical large group dynamics issues, also known as herding cats.
For many students, this was their first trip to the West Coast, and for a few, it was their first time on an airplane, which made things even more enjoyable.
Seattle
The city didn’t disappoint with some of the best weather, splendid architecture, good food, and even better coffee (of course). My first Seattle visit was strictly for pleasure and sightseeing with a group of some of my closest friends. We walked the city doing all of the tourist things, as well as some organized trips to surrounding vineyards for wine tastings. It was, in a word, delicious.
Much of downtown was as I remembered: very steep hills, a variety of old and new architecture, many, many coffee shops (thankfully not all named Starbucks, although there were dozens of those, too), and interesting shops. What has changed is the homeless presence, the drug-addled and mentally unstable souls wandering the streets, and the evolution of legal marijuana—the latter being of much interest to many of my touring companions.
It was sad to see most of the stores on 3rd Street between Union and Pine deserted. Store windows were replaced by plywood sheets and graffiti as the stores that used to inhabit the locations had been vandalized, looted, and finally closed. The intersection of 3rd and Pine houses one of my favorite coffee shops (Victrola), but the store was nearly empty when I visited. That probably has much to do with the beggars on the sidewalks and those openly doing hard drugs in front of the McDonald’s across the street. There was no legal weed being smoked here, strictly lighters, spoons, and rolled dollar bills for inhaling.
This starkly contrasts the buzzing and lively environment two blocks away at the famous Public Market. Tourists and, I imagine a few locals line the walkways to check out the wonderful fresh produce, flowers, and seafood available, not to mention the famous fish throwers on the corner.
I know the market is cliché and probably a place locals avoid. But it is one of the top things to see, so I spent a fair amount of time photographing the crowds, vendors, and workers. I also sampled some of the fresh fish for a fantastic lunch.
A trip focused on photography would not be complete without a visit to the Seattle Public Library. This building is massive, architecturally unique, and utterly fascinating. I spent 30 minutes just marveling and photographing the exterior and still left several areas uncovered. But the experience begins when you enter the building, and the light and shadows from the exterior structure play and dance on the floor and bookshelves. Not to mention the variety of colors, textures, and multi-level floors. It is simply an architectural photographer’s dream. Ten out of Ten.
Visiting Kerry Park for sunset is another popular stop for tourists and photographers alike, and our visit proved worthwhile. The warm and rosy sunset light enhanced an already splendid view of the Space Needle, the waterfront, and (for our trip) Mt. Rainier. I would suggest taking an Uber or some other rideshare, though. Parking is scarce, and the hill you must summit to reach the park is dauntingly steep.
Another spectacular sunset location is the piers along the sound, especially Pier 62. The view from the floating lower dock is magnificent and unspoiled by anything other than boats and waterfowl. The larger, elevated pier provides a spectacular view of the city, The Seattle Great Wheel, the waterfront, Lumen Field, and T-Mobile Park.
Olympic National Park
The contrast between Seattle and the quaint town of Port Angeles could not be more severe, but Port Angeles’s location makes it an excellent base from which to explore the park and its many sights.
Our time was limited, and while late April brings Spring to much of the country, the highest elevations of the park received significant snowfall the first few days of our trip. So, visiting the peak of Hurricane Ridge was off our itinerary.
Lake Crescent greeted us with a stunning sunrise despite a slight rain shower (the first of our trip!). No sunrise photography journey would be complete without the reward of a proper breakfast, so we returned to town for an outstanding and filling meal at the New Day Eatery.
With bellies full and much coffee consumed, it was time to return to Lake Crescent for the short hike to Merrymere Falls. Olympic National Park covers over one million acres, ranging from wild rocky coastlines to glacier-capped mountains to mind-blowing old-growth rainforests. The hike to the falls was our first introduction to the mossy wonderland the park is known for.
I had to constantly check the white balance on my camera because every photo looked impossibly green. But they were all accurate representations of what I saw with my eyes. With dozens of types of moss covering the ground and living on every tree the eye can see, the forest is greener than anything you’ve seen.
Hiking through trails of the Hoh Rainforest brought even more green overload with hanging losses flowing in the breeze. In most cases, the moss is so thick you can’t see the bark of the tree it grows on. I couldn’t help but think of the area’s mythical mascot, the Sasquatch, as the long mosses made trees look like fur-covered creatures.
No trip to the area would be complete without a stop at one of the many beaches along the Pacific Ocean. It may be a two-hour drive from Port Angeles, but sunset at Rialto Beach is worth it. We were not blessed with the most colorful or dazzling sunset, but the location made even a middling sunset stunning.
The offshore and onshore rocks make this coastline a spectacular setting for violent motion and the serene beauty of nature. Sprinkle in a few bald eagles, and you have yourself a true American treat.
The towering rock islands near the famous “Hole-in-the-wall” beautifully framed our sunset. Meanwhile, the surrounding tide pools offered unfettered views and interactions with sea creatures typically seen in aquariums. The experience was one to remember, even if things were chilly.
The contrast between a dense urban city and untamed nature made this trip an excellent reminder of how the environment impacts us. The feel of days in the city couldn’t be more different from those spent in nature. Both have pros and cons, and I wouldn’t want to live in one without time spent in the other.
If you haven’t visited this area of the country, you truly need to add it to your list. If you prefer the city lights or hikes in the rainforest, you will not be disappointed, but I recommend doing both.
Wonderful write-up of the PNW region! I hope you get some time in the future to write about Oregon. We have some wonderful food in Portland area and fabulous seafood on the scenic Pacific Coast.